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Sick Turtle Summary
[B]Sick Turtle Summary[/B]
Here is an [B]emergency first aid [/B]link:
Recognizing Emergencies which require IMMEDIATE VETERINARY CARE: [URL="https://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/Emergency.htm"]http://www.tortoiset...s/Emergency.htm[/URL]
If you can locate one, get a qualified reptile vet. Ordinary vets are no better prepared to treat your turtle than your family physician. Here is [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4964"]our vet link[/URL]. If you have found a wild turtle who is sick or injured, this website will help you locate a wild animal rehabber in your area: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/index.htm"]http://www.tc.umn.ed...o0028/index.htm[/URL]
The following generalizations are based on the care of cooters, sliders, and painted turtles. It has to be adjusted for other species, and especially for land species, e.g. they still need their environment made warmer, but that would be their AIR not their WATER.:
[B]A. A sick turtle needs (General Sick Turtle Protocol consists of: )[/B]
1) [B]Water around 82-85 degrees F. (28-29 degrees C) and basking temperature around 90 degrees F. (32-34 degrees C). [/B]If you have a land turtle, or a species other than a slider, painted turtle, or cooter, these temperatures may vary slightly.
2) Lots of [B]UV light[/B]. SEE:[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3769"]UVB light[/URL] for the specific experience of many boardies on this subject.
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3763"]Will UVA/UVB Light go through a thick glass window[/URL]
UV lighting sources are 1) Natural, direct sunlight and a good artificial source, such as a Reptisun 10.0, 8.0, 5.0 under 6 months old for a sick turtle, or a reptile mercury vapor lamp. Reptile Mercury Vapor lamps include: Capture The Sun Mercury Vapor Bulbs, Powersun UV Mercury Vapor Lamps, and others. I have had the best experience with Capture the Sun Mercury Vapor Bulbs which both outlasted and outproformed (in terms of UV output) other UV mercury vapor bulbs I have tried, but others have had different results.
3) [B]Liquid vitamins [/B]dissolved in his water for turtles that are not eating. Ideally, a calcium block is good, too. I use human baby vitamins, Poly-Vi-Sol. Another good source of calcium is bony tiny fish, like bait fish, minnows, and smelts. If the turtle is still eating, however, and you can still get it to eat herp vitamins, those are better.
4) If you are unsure what is wrong with the turtle, [B]isolate him [/B]or her until you can be sure it won’t make your other turtles sick. Give the exposed turtles palliative care to prevent illness. Turtle diseases which are known to be catching are marked below with two *s, **. ** means: Infectious disease. Isolate the turtle. Take preventive measure to protect any exposed animal.
5) Every diseased turtle should be brought to [B]a qualified turtle (technical name:herp) vet[/B] to ensure you have diagnosed the turtle correctly, and to get any medications which can help your turtle get well.
6) A [B]review of basic husbandry techniques [/B]to be sure you are giving the turtle all the things he needs to survive. For [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12879"]Care For Sliders, Cooters, and Painted Turtles[/URL], for other turtles, and more care tips on cooters, sliders, and painted turtles, try looking up your species in Care Sheets Alphabetical by Common Name, for common names starting with [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18815"]A to I[/URL]. [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22949"]J to R[/URL]. or [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22950"]S to Z[/URL]. . The care sheets are listed by common name, but include scientific names. In some cases, the turtles are grouped by species, in other by genus, but the common name will direct you to the listing. There are over 90 species of turtle listed.
[B]NOTE WELL: DO NOT DRYDOCK WATER TURTLES AS A GENERAL SICK TURTLE RESPONSE[/B]. Drydocking (forcing the turtle to stay on dry land) puts water turtles themselves under a lot of stress. This should only be used for specific illnesses which have been shown to respond to drydocking. Any action which strains the turtle but not the illness (drydocking for respiratory infection, for example) makes it harder for the turtle to recover and easier for the illness to get stronger.
[B]B. Specific illnesses[/B]
1) [B]Turtle caught underwater and appears to have drowned[/B]. Put him on dry land and pump his legs, to try to get him to breathe again. Some here have reported success if the turtle was caught quickly enough. Here is a heartwrenching account: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18119"]of an owner who saved their turtle[/URL]
here are detailed instructions of turtle CPR:
Copyright by Valerie Haecky. This document may be freely distributed for non-profit use, provided this notice is included.
The following information is compiled from a variety of articles in various newsletters. I have tried this myself, too.
Both water turtles and box turtles can drown. Even a drowned turtle that looks quite dead might just be waiting for you to help it get its breath back. Remember that turtles can be without oxygen for a long time, especially in cool water, before the damage is irreversible.
First and foremost: NEVER TURN THE TURTLE/TORTOISE ON ITS BACK.
Turning it on his back might remove the little airspace still left in the lungs.
1. Grasp the turtle's head behind the ears (base of skull) and extend the neck completely.
2. Turn it head-down/tail up and open its mouth. Usually, some water will flow of drip out at this point. Wait until the dripping stops.
3. Place the turtle (belly down) on a flat surface with it's neck extended. Stand in front of the turtle.
4. Straighten his front legs and pull them straight toward you as far as they will go.
5. Keeping the legs straight, push them in as far as they will go. Do not let the legs bend at the elbows.
6. Continue pulling and pushing until water stops coming out.
Now it's time to take your turtle to the veterinarian. The veterinarian will insert a tube and start providing the turtle with pure oxygen. He may give a respiratory stimulant and a drug to a drug that will help the turtle excrete the water accumulate in its tissue. After this, the turtle will probably regain consciousness and start moving.
Since some turtles develop pneumonia after drowning, the veterinarian will most likely recommend a course of antibiotics.
A note on mouth-to-mouth (or straw to mouth) breathing. I've seen it described in one place. I don't know whether it works, and I don't know whether the risk of blowing in too hard and damaging the lungs is worth it. The above instructions are proven to work in many cases.
A note on baby turtles: The smaller the turtle, the harder it is to help the animal, simply because of its small size.
2) If **[B]Turtle is vocalizing, either by loud breathing or clicking sounds, appears to be gasping for breath, swimming lopsided, or is has mucus or foam at the mouth or nose, or just has a "runny nose" or swims or can't submerge.[/B], the turtle is probably suffering from a respiratory infection. This is very deadly in turtles. In addition to the above measures, it is IMPERATIVE the turtle be brought to a reptile vet (see Good links to Find a Herp Vet, just above this topic) to get antibiotics. Most untreated turtles who have respiratory infections will die. For more information read:
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/medinjuries.htm"]http://www.austinstu...medinjuries.htm[/URL]
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/rns.html"]http://www.tortoiset...ticles/rns.html[/URL]
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/archives/brown1.html"]http://www.tortoise....ves/brown1.html[/URL] [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/general/urds.html"]http://www.tortoise....neral/urds.html[/URL] [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/general/urds2.html"]http://www.tortoise....eral/urds2.html[/URL]
These infections may become chronic and require ongoing care. Read: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36919"]http://www.turtletim...showtopic=36919[/URL]
3) If **[B]Turtle appears reddish[/B], including either skin or on the shell. Turtle MAY have an infection which has worked its way into the blood. This will usually kill your turtle. It requires the general sick turtle protocol steps above PLUS a visit to the vet for antibiotics.
Here is an [B]emergency first aid [/B]link:
Recognizing Emergencies which require IMMEDIATE VETERINARY CARE: [URL="https://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/Emergency.htm"]http://www.tortoiset...s/Emergency.htm[/URL]
If you can locate one, get a qualified reptile vet. Ordinary vets are no better prepared to treat your turtle than your family physician. Here is [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4964"]our vet link[/URL]. If you have found a wild turtle who is sick or injured, this website will help you locate a wild animal rehabber in your area: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/index.htm"]http://www.tc.umn.ed...o0028/index.htm[/URL]
The following generalizations are based on the care of cooters, sliders, and painted turtles. It has to be adjusted for other species, and especially for land species, e.g. they still need their environment made warmer, but that would be their AIR not their WATER.:
[B]A. A sick turtle needs (General Sick Turtle Protocol consists of: )[/B]
1) [B]Water around 82-85 degrees F. (28-29 degrees C) and basking temperature around 90 degrees F. (32-34 degrees C). [/B]If you have a land turtle, or a species other than a slider, painted turtle, or cooter, these temperatures may vary slightly.
2) Lots of [B]UV light[/B]. SEE:[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3769"]UVB light[/URL] for the specific experience of many boardies on this subject.
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3763"]Will UVA/UVB Light go through a thick glass window[/URL]
UV lighting sources are 1) Natural, direct sunlight and a good artificial source, such as a Reptisun 10.0, 8.0, 5.0 under 6 months old for a sick turtle, or a reptile mercury vapor lamp. Reptile Mercury Vapor lamps include: Capture The Sun Mercury Vapor Bulbs, Powersun UV Mercury Vapor Lamps, and others. I have had the best experience with Capture the Sun Mercury Vapor Bulbs which both outlasted and outproformed (in terms of UV output) other UV mercury vapor bulbs I have tried, but others have had different results.
3) [B]Liquid vitamins [/B]dissolved in his water for turtles that are not eating. Ideally, a calcium block is good, too. I use human baby vitamins, Poly-Vi-Sol. Another good source of calcium is bony tiny fish, like bait fish, minnows, and smelts. If the turtle is still eating, however, and you can still get it to eat herp vitamins, those are better.
4) If you are unsure what is wrong with the turtle, [B]isolate him [/B]or her until you can be sure it won’t make your other turtles sick. Give the exposed turtles palliative care to prevent illness. Turtle diseases which are known to be catching are marked below with two *s, **. ** means: Infectious disease. Isolate the turtle. Take preventive measure to protect any exposed animal.
5) Every diseased turtle should be brought to [B]a qualified turtle (technical name:herp) vet[/B] to ensure you have diagnosed the turtle correctly, and to get any medications which can help your turtle get well.
6) A [B]review of basic husbandry techniques [/B]to be sure you are giving the turtle all the things he needs to survive. For [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12879"]Care For Sliders, Cooters, and Painted Turtles[/URL], for other turtles, and more care tips on cooters, sliders, and painted turtles, try looking up your species in Care Sheets Alphabetical by Common Name, for common names starting with [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18815"]A to I[/URL]. [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22949"]J to R[/URL]. or [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22950"]S to Z[/URL]. . The care sheets are listed by common name, but include scientific names. In some cases, the turtles are grouped by species, in other by genus, but the common name will direct you to the listing. There are over 90 species of turtle listed.
[B]NOTE WELL: DO NOT DRYDOCK WATER TURTLES AS A GENERAL SICK TURTLE RESPONSE[/B]. Drydocking (forcing the turtle to stay on dry land) puts water turtles themselves under a lot of stress. This should only be used for specific illnesses which have been shown to respond to drydocking. Any action which strains the turtle but not the illness (drydocking for respiratory infection, for example) makes it harder for the turtle to recover and easier for the illness to get stronger.
[B]B. Specific illnesses[/B]
1) [B]Turtle caught underwater and appears to have drowned[/B]. Put him on dry land and pump his legs, to try to get him to breathe again. Some here have reported success if the turtle was caught quickly enough. Here is a heartwrenching account: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18119"]of an owner who saved their turtle[/URL]
here are detailed instructions of turtle CPR:
Copyright by Valerie Haecky. This document may be freely distributed for non-profit use, provided this notice is included.
The following information is compiled from a variety of articles in various newsletters. I have tried this myself, too.
Both water turtles and box turtles can drown. Even a drowned turtle that looks quite dead might just be waiting for you to help it get its breath back. Remember that turtles can be without oxygen for a long time, especially in cool water, before the damage is irreversible.
First and foremost: NEVER TURN THE TURTLE/TORTOISE ON ITS BACK.
Turning it on his back might remove the little airspace still left in the lungs.
1. Grasp the turtle's head behind the ears (base of skull) and extend the neck completely.
2. Turn it head-down/tail up and open its mouth. Usually, some water will flow of drip out at this point. Wait until the dripping stops.
3. Place the turtle (belly down) on a flat surface with it's neck extended. Stand in front of the turtle.
4. Straighten his front legs and pull them straight toward you as far as they will go.
5. Keeping the legs straight, push them in as far as they will go. Do not let the legs bend at the elbows.
6. Continue pulling and pushing until water stops coming out.
Now it's time to take your turtle to the veterinarian. The veterinarian will insert a tube and start providing the turtle with pure oxygen. He may give a respiratory stimulant and a drug to a drug that will help the turtle excrete the water accumulate in its tissue. After this, the turtle will probably regain consciousness and start moving.
Since some turtles develop pneumonia after drowning, the veterinarian will most likely recommend a course of antibiotics.
A note on mouth-to-mouth (or straw to mouth) breathing. I've seen it described in one place. I don't know whether it works, and I don't know whether the risk of blowing in too hard and damaging the lungs is worth it. The above instructions are proven to work in many cases.
A note on baby turtles: The smaller the turtle, the harder it is to help the animal, simply because of its small size.
2) If **[B]Turtle is vocalizing, either by loud breathing or clicking sounds, appears to be gasping for breath, swimming lopsided, or is has mucus or foam at the mouth or nose, or just has a "runny nose" or swims or can't submerge.[/B], the turtle is probably suffering from a respiratory infection. This is very deadly in turtles. In addition to the above measures, it is IMPERATIVE the turtle be brought to a reptile vet (see Good links to Find a Herp Vet, just above this topic) to get antibiotics. Most untreated turtles who have respiratory infections will die. For more information read:
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/medinjuries.htm"]http://www.austinstu...medinjuries.htm[/URL]
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/rns.html"]http://www.tortoiset...ticles/rns.html[/URL]
[URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/archives/brown1.html"]http://www.tortoise....ves/brown1.html[/URL] [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/general/urds.html"]http://www.tortoise....neral/urds.html[/URL] [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.tortoise.org/general/urds2.html"]http://www.tortoise....eral/urds2.html[/URL]
These infections may become chronic and require ongoing care. Read: [URL="https://web.archive.org/web/20160919054641/http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36919"]http://www.turtletim...showtopic=36919[/URL]
3) If **[B]Turtle appears reddish[/B], including either skin or on the shell. Turtle MAY have an infection which has worked its way into the blood. This will usually kill your turtle. It requires the general sick turtle protocol steps above PLUS a visit to the vet for antibiotics.
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